Denzong Lho-Po or Sikkimese Bhutia Traditional Attire

The Bhutia attire for both the gender is multilayered set of clothing, suited to the cold weather of the hills. It has changed very little in design over the period of time. The main difference in the attire, traditional and contemporary, is mainly in terms of fabric used. An interesting item used in making the attire is the thubje, a brass button, used for both male and female clothing. The Bhutia men’s wear is mainly reserved for the occasional events while the Bhutia women’s wear is one of the most popular everyday formals/casual wear, preferred not only within the community but by other communities as well.

Male Attire

The male attire consists of Kho, a full sleeved robe, worn with Yuentharz/ Wonthatsi or the shirt, usually of white color. A sleeveless coat or the Zhaza makes up the outer clothing worn on top of the Kho. A Kyera is a piece of bright colored cloth used as a belt to tie the Kho or the robe. A Gyador is a full length lower inner cloth which was worn traditionally, replaced by trousers in the modern times. A Phosom is a calf length boots which is hand stitched decorated with brocades or woolen cloth with soles made out of tanned animal hides typically worn with the kho. Modern day shoes have replaced the Phosom. An Ujjya(Thuuril Shambu/Popri Shambu) or the hat completes the whole set. Another form of male attire is a called Denju/Danjo similar to a kilt worn by Irishmen. It’s a lower half garment worn while playing Da or archery. The Denjong Danjo is a bit longer in length than the Bhutanese or Druk Danjo.

The fabric used for the occasional wear is brocade or the kuchen for kho and Zhaza. Thuuchi or silk is used for Yuentharz/ Wonthatsi. A variety of textile is used for stitching kho and Zhaza for formal wear. The Yuentharz /Wonthatsi is made of variety of synthetic fabrics. The trend of wearing only the Yuentharz /Wonthatsi and Zhaza over trousers is quite common.

Female Attire

The female attire traditionally consists of a full sleeved Namja/Kho(mo-gyen/karden), similar to a robe. The Kho is worn with a blouse, Honju. A Keyra or the belt is used to tie the Kho. A Khusey is an outer coat with distinct side pockets in the front worn on top of the Kho. A Ujjya Tshering Kinkhap or a female hat is also worn. A Pangden is worn by women folk symbolizing their marital status. A Mosom,or calf length boots are worn by women.

The modern female attire is a slightly modified version, popularized in the 50’s and 60’s. The modern design is worn by all generations, currently. It consists of Kho/Bakhu worn with Honju. It is sleeveless, full length wrap dress with an attached belt tied at the back.

Kuchen or brocade fabric is used for the Bakhu, silk is used for the honju, for stitching occasional wear. Various designs of coats and blazer are worn over the Kho. The Pangden is traditionally made up of sheep’s wool, but today it is available in wide colors and synthetic fabrics as well. A plain mill cloth is preferred for formal Bakhu, a wide variety of fabric with prints is also popular for casual wear.

by Karma Choden Bhutia